International Bagpipe Day, Athens

This edition is from our archives, so it is presented as scanned pages rather than text.

File under essential purchase.
This record is available from Collatt’s or if not by mail order (along with all other Galician and other Spanish records) from ARPAFOLK,
S.O.

IN SEARCH OF THE 100 BAGPIPERS
by Paul Miller

Most of you will have received a circular a month or two back inviting you to join the British-Bulgarian Friendship society on their trip to the Rozen folkore festival in Bulgaria for something less than a bargain price (23688+extras? must be a joke). Being a seasoned traveller of the Balkans but having made only one trip to Bulgaria, which was somewhat limited due to having acquired a plastered leg on the way, I decided to make my own way there. So armed with a cheap charter ticket to Yugoslavia, a visa for Bulgaria (£20?) must have been another joke) and against the advice of Bulgoraphil friends who warned that events like this have a habit of getting cancelled at the last minute, I set off for Rozen.

Looks like I should have heeded their advice, Because when I got there all the posters had been overprinted with a new date - the festival had been postponed for a week!

So what happened? Were the promised 100 bagpipers too busy like I was, queuing for bread? Was it because long-standing party leader Todor Zhivkov was being ousted from power because he doesn’t get on with Gorbacev (The order to take his portraits down came while I was there.) Local officials were not to be found and those not in authority were as clueless as any Bulgarian is about what is happening in the country.

Anyway, your intrepid Bagpipe Society member had to miss the festival as my charter flight left from Yugoslavia while the festival was on… I wasn’t too sorry to miss the 100 bagpipers, except for the fact that they would have been playing the local instrument, the Kaba Gaida which has a beautiful deep tone distinct from most other bagpipes. The idea of playing 100 together is probably not traditional but more probably the idea of some official or committee; still, I was curious to know what they would have sounded like. In certain villages in Macedonia there is a tradition of playing large numbers of Gajdas (or Gajdi in the plural) together and in the village of Dolneni they can still manage an ensemble of 10 players and pretty amazing they sound too, but Pece Atanasovski, Macedonia’s most famous Gajda player who comes from that village tells me that it once was able to muster 100 players. So it looks like the Bulgarians stole the idea from the Macedonians!

Anyway this was supposed to have been a report on the festival. Instead I have to ask if any members did actually make it to the festival on the presumably rescheduled BBFS trip? Or did they turn up the wrong weekend as well?

P.M.

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LORIENT THROUGH THE DRINKING GLASS by Simon Owen

For the bagpiper, the Lorient Interceltic festival in Brittany is like a course of aversion therapy. If nine days of continuous bagpipes can’t cure you of being involved with them, nothing will! For most people, of course, nothing will. Imagine some four thousand participants, a large percentage of whom play bagpipes (generally Highland or Galias), playing virtually continuously from afternoon till dawn; music of the spheres to some, souls in torment to others.

Each Celtic nation sends a delegation to the Lorient Festival, and it is easy to lose track of who is currently claiming to be Celtic. It took several years for Galicia to be accepted in to the Celtic fold, and now their neighbours and fellow Gaelters, Asturias, are claiming Celtic nationhood. Although neither has been accepted into the League of Celtic Nations, such distinctions count for very little when you have such exuberant people and wonderful music.

The Welsh contingent was a massive ten musicians (seven of PENCERDD and three of CROMLECH), although we did manage a good showing on the bagpipe front, with myself and Richard Brown from Pencerdd and Peter Davies of Cromlech using various beasts of burden. Welsh music has never had the highest of reputations in the past, being either unbearably polite and bland Elsftedfa-type parlour music or choral singing excerpts from Gilbert and Sullivan (as I heard when I was on the festival a few years previously) We were determined, therefore, to keep a high profile and continue the trend started in the last few years of the more progressive Welsh groups such as Aberjaber.

On arrival at two in the afternoon, we passed the main marquee which had a sign saying that Pencerdd would be playing at four o’clock. This left very little time for any apprehension and no time at all to gauge the standard of the other groups or the mood of the audience! I wondered how, in such a short time, they could manage to do sound checks, but in the field of chackling and settling up, I feel that the Lorient organization has hit on an excellent arrangement. Each group is given an hour-long slot in which to set up and perform. If they tinker with microphones for most of that hour and play for only a few minutes, that is up to them. To my mind, nothing is more frustrating than endless and often self-indulgent sound checks which can last longer than the actual performance. In addition, the sound crews were excellent and really understood what the groups were doing, following the music and mixing accordingly.

Our first performance went tolerably well, and we finished with a set of Welsh tunes played by myself and Richard on two pipes, having hung a large Welsh flag from the drone of mine to indicate that it was a Welsh bagpipe (gaita gallega?). We were closely questioned afterwards by a newspaper reporter on why we used gaitas, and what had happened to Welsh bagpipes. The result of this conversation was the following newspaper paragraph which demonstrates that he took my answers for less than gospel truth!

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Cherchez l’intrus…

[Image: Surprise pour les festivaliers assemblés samedi après-midi, sous le chapiteau des arts : un jour de gaîté figurait au nombre des musiciens de groupe gaëlls]

Pencerdé, « La goIte, m’a-t-il expliqué, ressemble à la cornemuse gaëllole au Moyen Age. » (?)

Having settled into the routine fairly quickly, certain things became obvious. Primarily among these was the enthusiasm of the Lorient and Vittelng public for informal playing. Setting up in a bar inevitably resulted in many free drinks and a lot of interest. As with a lot of festivals, this was the best part of the proceedings, especially for meeting and playing with other musicians. Most nights we would play, usually in the same bar, until four or five in the morning. Fortunately, concerts did not resume until the afternoon, the morning’s only activity being a parade by a different pipe band every day.

Although a group’s concert schedule is by no means arduous, we hardly got to see half of the other concerts that were on. However there were several outstanding groups: the Gallican Luar la Lubre, whose gaitero had a deeply wonderful three-drone gaita; also from Galicia, Armegüi, who feature more vocal music than is usually associated with bands having two gaiteros. Although Asturian music is not so immediately memorable or exciting as Galician, I enjoyed the young Asturian group Lian de Cubel, who featured an excellent gaitero. Not to everyone’s taste were the Gallican rock group Brath, who integrated the gaita very well into rock numbers with firm traditional feeling, but were less successful at rocking up actual traditional tunes, which were a bit too simple for such elaborate treatment and ended up a little over-dressed.

Although Irish music is not exactly my favourite to listen to (rather than play), I could not help but be impressed by the absurdly young and extremely talented Irish groups, especially Slabh and Tamalin. Unfortunately I missed seeing Davy Spillane, who I think was performing solo and also missed hearing Calticants, who are an Italian band using the ‘bags’ (the North Indian pipe resurrected by Massimo Fumagalli) and are a very theatrical and musically very exciting group.

For the bagpiper the wonder of the event was not in the variety of bagpipes on show, as would be the case in St. Chartier, but the sheer weight of numbers of sets of pipes around, usually Highland or Gaitas. A common sight at mealtimes would to a bagpipe mountain stacked up while their owners partook of the excellent food. On several occasions I was transfixed by a pile of Antonio Corral gaitas twenty or thirty deep (the Man himself ran an excellent pipe band Gaitas de Xarabal); surely they wouldn’t miss just one?

Since the Irish, Scottish and Breton pipe bands use the same pipes (more or less), it was interesting to compare the different styles and repertories. This was made very easy on the day of the Great Parade, when seventy different outfits went in procession along a mile-long course. It took two hours for the whole parade to go by, and most of the participants played pipes. The Breton bagadou seemed to be the most interesting, since the bombarders give them a flexibility of approach to the music which the bagpiper only bands don’t have. For the first time in its history, the parade was not led by the naval bagad of Lorient, Bagad Lann-Bihoué. Pride of place (I this time went to the Frenchmen marching band of two flatau, rauschpfeife and percussion. As the only Welsh representatives willing to process, we were put at the front to avoid upsetting the careful programming of the rest. Apart from the fact that we couldn’t be heard when the bagad turned passes behind us was playing (2 gaitas vs. 20 pipes, 20 bombarders and 8 drums) our only embarrassment was the lack of a national costume. Alex Evans’ suggestion that we went naked painted with blood was not put into practise since it was a chill morning and none of the shops sold woad.

I love the sound of a massed palta marching band, and the Gallican costumes were the most elegant on display, especially those of the men. The Asturian seem less lamboyant, both in costumes and music, although not without charm of their own. They do not go to for large groups of pipers (a dozen or so at the must) and marching is made most uncomfortable due to their amazing three-pronged clogs. The Asturian pipes are outwardly the same as Gallican gaitas except they only ever have one drone (as far as I could see) and have a flared end to the drone rather than the characteristic bottle-shaped ends of the Galician drones. However, they employ exclusively closed fingering as opposed to the Gallican open or semi-closed and the tunes use overblowing as a matter of course, to at least the three finger note of the second octave. The Gallicans very rarely stray above the break and even then only go one or two notes above.

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The Bagpipe Society

International Bagpipe Day, Athens